Welcome to my little Kawasaki KZ750 Twin info site.

To get started, click on any of the categories at the right side of the page or the links at the top of the page.  Or if you need to find something more specific (like “service manuals”), use the search at the top right.

Enjoy!  …and thanks for stopping by…



  1. Biquetoast says:

    @Dave –
    I wish I knew… I’m betting the ’83 will work, but probably not anything else. Anybody else got an idea?

  2. Carlos says:

    the air box for the 78, 79, and 1980 750-G1 model of the twin might fit in the actual space in the CSR, but the boots are a different size, since the earlier models hav different carburetors. the side covers for the G1 will probably fit. I don’t know about the 83 models, but it’s definitely worth a shot.
    tomorrow I’ll tension the drive chain a little more than it is now and see if that fixes the vibrating. I definitely haven’t heard any noises from the chain suggesting it’s loose but it’s def a possibility! I’ll letcha know my findings tomorrow.

  3. Biquetoast says:

    @Carlos –
    Just to be clear… I didn’t mean to suggest it’s *loose*, it actually might be fine as far as tension goes. On my 2 750’s, they both do this, but one more than the other. I have found that it has to do with wheel *alignment*, and certain harmonics that come from the engine at certain RPMs and chain tension. Again, I don’t know if this is what’s happening to you, but your description sounds so much like it. A couple things.. If you feel that unusual vibration starting to form, does it go away if you back off the throttle a tad? Have you ever looked down at your chain when the unusual vibration starts to occur to see if the bottom if flapping wildly side-to-side? I asked about this a couple times in the forums in the past, but most folks thought I was crazy… And who knows, as Billy Joel once said, “…You may be right…” ;)

  4. Carlos says:

    actually, I had the wheels trued before I painted them, so it probably isn’t that. I measured the chain as per the service manual and I got a reading of 320mm, which is about 2mm above the standard limit. I assume the person before me hadn’t bothered to tension the chain accordingly, so I did that this morning, and *most* of the vibration I was describing went away. hell yeah!

  5. Carlos says:

    @biquetoast and everyone else who might be interested
    so I changed the oil in my motorcycle not too long ago and it started smoking. I performed a more scientific compression test this time and I got 145 psi in the left cylinder and 170 in the right cylinder. Not good. I also suspect the valve seals are trashed and need to be replaced. I went on eBay and did a little snooping and found this store who’s selling brand new ART pistons and rings for 40 dollars a pop. ART is the company who made almost all of the original pistons for kawasaki, so this an incredible deal. I also found brand new Viton valve seals for 15 plus free shipping. The valve seals for the twins are a joke to find because kawasaki apparently decided to use unique ones for these bikes and the same ones for every other goddamn model. Anyway, total is 108 dollars for everything, but I’m still talking to the seller to give me a break on shipping.
    As far as gasket go, I make them all myself. We’ll see about the head gaskets.

    Thought y’all would like to know if anyone is performing a top end rebuild.

  6. Johnnyblades says:

    How do you get the blind cap plugs out of the four locations of the headbolts? Manual say use one of the cap bolts from the rollers that lock down the cam I tried that but still can’t pull them out. any suggestions would help.


  7. Carlos says:

    @johnnyblades @biquetoast
    funnily enough, I was about to tell those who come on here how my rebuild went. all well; ~155 psi in each cylinder and running like a rocket. to get those blind caps off you have to use your imagination a bit. three of mine came out easily, one did not. what I did was leave the camshaft caps on the head with the bolts on, place a towel or some such thing over them, and use it as a leverage point with a robogrip (if you have one, if not, something similar) to pull them off. moving the cap around in a circular motion helps. if they won’t come off, I suggest spraying some PB blaster on them and leaving it for a while so it gets past the o-ring. unfortunately the age of the rubber and the heat of the engine create a pretty tight seal. obvs you’ll want to replace the rings when you reinstall the caps.

    as an aside, be careful with the chain guide if you’re removing the cylinder block. major PITA to remove and install, so make sure you have it on the right way. good luck.

  8. Biquetoast says:

    @Carlos –
    Thanks for pitching in! I’m also a fan of PB Blaster.
    @Johnnyblades –
    I hope that helps…

  9. Johnnyblades says:

    Thanks for the advice I will check out the robogrip I will try to get some imagination and patience this one blindcap is something else
    thanks again.

  10. Michael says:


    I have a 1980 KZ 750 G LTD. I need to order a new stator and regulator rectifier. I can only find the parts online for the KZ 750 H LTD model. Do you know if they are the same parts for the two models?

    Also what are the main differences between the two models?

    Thank you!

  11. Biquetoast says:

    @Michael –

    If my memory serves, the “H” is the four-cyl model that debuted in 1981. What you need for the 78-80 models is likely to be listed as the “750B” or something. Just make sure you don’t get it for the first two years, the ’76 and the ’77, because they had different electrical systems. It changed in ’78, and remained at least through your ’80 (I can’t recall if it stayed the same for the ’82 – ’84).


  12. Carlos says:

    the regulator/rectifier on the G is the same as the 1982 M, if memory serves me right. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KOR2JKS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1407269434&sr=8-2
    I had to replace mine and I used this. no complaints. also, are you sure you have to replace the stator? those things are pretty hardcore. did you run the AC output test?

    anyway, I came on here to ask about carb tuning. do any of y’all know about tuning the pilot air screw? my idle’s a little erratic, and I think the air screw is too lean. is it in for leaner and out for richer?

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