Welcome to my little Kawasaki KZ750 Twin info site.

To get started, click on any of the categories at the right side of the page or the links at the top of the page.  Or if you need to find something more specific (like “service manuals”), use the search at the top right.

Enjoy!  …and thanks for stopping by…



  1. Biquetoast says:

    @Rhyno –
    Sorry, no, I wish I could help. I think it’s off to eBay for you…

  2. Rich says:

    I just smashed the black plastic rear Master cylinder cap. It’s the same size as the one off the front(I took it off to check). I did a web search for them but its turning up empty for part specifics. I would assume then that all caps the same size or something? I’d like to just get a cheap plastic replacement rather than buying an expensive chrome or metal cap. I know this may be a stupid question but, hay, you’re like Obe’one Kenobi of this stuff. so what’s the harm in asking…


  3. Biquetoast says:

    @Rich –
    Good news! It appears that both the front and rear cap are the same part number on the ’76/77.
    I checked ye olde parts list (see it here: http://kz750twins.com/?p=418), and found that this is what you’re after:
    Front cap – 43026-003 CAP,OIL CUP (pg 46/47)
    Rear cap – 43026-003 CAP,OIL CUP (pg 74/75)
    I hope that helps…

  4. majo says:

    I hawe a 1978 z750twin scr…. great bike

  5. Mike says:

    Love the site as always . I have a question . I have oil dripping from the tach cable at the head . I know there an o-ring and a seal in there . Can the tach drive be removed (seal is out board)easily or is heavy disassembly required . Tired of wiping oil off my leg . Can’t find any reference to this in the manual . Thanks in advance for any help……..Mike

  6. Mike says:

    Sorry……77 if it matters

  7. Biquetoast says:

    It’s been a while since I addressed this, but it’s something all 750 twin owners face at least once. I remember writing (and reading) posts about the right way to fix it… it involved taking off the valve cover, and maybe the head, and pressing out the drive, inserting a seal, bla bla bla.
    Wanna know what I did (and many others) to successfully stop the leak?
    1.) Unscrew tach cable from head
    2.) Insert small o-ring (can’t remember the size, but same as tach cable end)
    3.) Screw on tach cable
    …now this isn’t the *correct* way, but it forces any leaking oil up the tach cable and lubes it. I’ve done this on both my 750s, and I’ll probably do it again since the one o-ring is failing after about 7 years. Consider it a poor man’s fix, but it works pretty well…

  8. Mike says:

    Thanks Toast……..already picked up an o-ring . Guess a proper fix will have to wait till winter……which winter , i’m not sure of yet . Hate to stop riding with the weather so nice now in NY .

  9. Mike says:

    O-ring did the trick . On the road again……..

  10. KraZy750 says:

    I have a ’78 KZ 750 twin and I’m looking for new piston rings and rod bearings. I’m not having much luck on my search. Any suggestions?

  11. Biquetoast says:

    @KraZy750 –
    I wish I could help… all I ever do is troll eBay to find things….

  12. lakesguypaul says:

    Hi All
    Great site and i am a newbie here. I bought a 1978 KZ 750B that had been sitting for over 10 years and was tore down to be painted and was wrecked in the front and had the whole front end replaced and i had to hand wire it back to stock.I got it running and it was running great. then all of a sudden it stated to miss badly and then wouldn’t start at all. carbs are redone,there fine, all new electrical, thats fine.It seemed like it wasn’t sucking gas in to the heads,I pulled the plugs out and checked the compression, problem, 74# on the left side 95# on the right.It had like 130# before.I only put like 32 miles on it and never rode it hard or red lined it.I can get a used motor for 150.00 or do you think it is just a problem in the heads? I wouldnt want to do all the work swapping out a motor and have the same thing happen again if i knew i could just have the heads redone and the bike would be solid.motor has 23k on it now. Thanks for any suggestions!!!

  13. TerryKZ says:

    I’m slowly pulling apart my ’76 KZ750B1, cleaning, repairing and replacing as I go. While cleaning all the gunk from under the rear inner/outer fenders and the tail piece, I heard something drop onto the work bench – it was a black plastic disc about 1.4″ in diameter. The hole it fits into is between the last mounting bolt at the rear of the tail piece and the tail light. I don’t see it on any of the parts diagrams – any idea what it is and what it is for? Looks like it was installed using a small amount of glue. Thanks for any information!

  14. LonesomeTwin says:


    Long time no see. Nice to see someone carrying the torch, if you need yet another manual (I did mine myself, its small but good :-) ) or some long-forgotten reviews or whatever, get back to me.

  15. Biquetoast says:

    @LonesomeTwin –
    Hi Steve, long time. Yeah, I’m still loving my twins, in fact just rode one to work today in December! I really wish I had more time to put into this site and keep it up to date, and make it really useful. Maybe when I retire… ;)
    - ‘Toast

  16. kevin says:

    Toast, I have been building this kx750 twin for the last year now, I got it all put together, engine running great, except for one problem, it has a very hard time shifting into second gear, not that it is hard, but more like just goes into to neutral, but once in a while it will go into second gear, then will easily shift up and down, then will just start doing the same thing again, from first to neutral, like its not being full engaged up, but shifter wont go up any further. Any ideas? She wants to go and the few times I have been able to get it to shift up she is a runner.

  17. dee_sandy says:

    Hey Toast,

    I just bought my self a 1976 KZ750 and I’m working on getting her in running condition. Right now I’m working on the front brake, going to replace the brake line, but ran into trouble when the brake pipe was seized. I ended braking the brake pipe and now I’m having trouble finding another one.

    I’m going to be replacing the line with this: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vntage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-chopper-brat-custom-motorcycle-brake-parts-galfer-k7-stainless-steel-universal-brake-line-fk-u11.html

    And I found this brake pipe: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-brake-parts-oe-honda-cb-450-750-hard-front-brake-pipe-line-45128-323-020.html

    But it says it’s for a CB450, and “May Fit Others”, but of course I don’t want to just buy it and see. Do you know where I could find a brake pipe or have a suggestion to not use a brake pipe? Thanks!


  18. Biquetoast says:

    @dee_sandy –
    Boy, that’s a tough one. Those early 750′s have that solid brake line pipe because your front brake was in front of the fork… So the big problem is that if you use a hard pipe from another model, it may not fit and you cannot really shape it. On the other hand, you could figure out a way to run braided stainless steel line all the way form your brake switch to your caliper, and just skip the solid line. It may not look right, but with the correct fitting, it will work (but be careful where you route it). Or, just keep hunting for an original hard line…

  19. Biquetoast says:

    @kevin –
    Whoa… wait a minute… You mean it won’t shift into second when running? Remember, there’s a mechanism in there that stops you from shifting into second while stopped. I can’t remember what it’s called, something like “positive neutral idle…” or something, I forget.. ;)

  20. kevin says:

    Yes. While running it wont shift into second, most of the time. I thought there was something like a neutral lock. Looks like balls fall into a notch one one of the shafts gears are attached to. I am just gonna buy new gears, shifter drum cam and shifter fork, that should fix problem. Its in the 80′s herevin phoenix, gotta ride.

  21. kevin says:

    Also toast, thank you for your time

  22. kevin says:

    Toast, so i I read what you had to say about electronic igintion opitions and to me it sounds like an igintion from a kz440 is best and easiest way to go, would you agree? As always, thank you vey much for your time and knowledge.

  23. Biquetoast says:

    @ kevin –
    I confess I have not actually done that mod with the kz440 parts, so I cannot say specifically.
    However, it sure does seem to be pretty straightforward.
    And while I have all the parts to do it… When the time comes for me to change from points to electronic on my second 750, I’m pretty sure I’m going to do the “half-Dyna” method, just so I can have the safety and reliability of *new* hardware. And since the kz440 parts are only going to become more rare as time goes on (meaning the cost goes up with scarcity), I’d rather have something that is replaceable upon failure, is future-proofed, etc. After all, I intend to have these bikes for many, many years…. ;)

  24. kevin says:

    Thank you for your time. Mechanic wants 1700 dollar’s to rebuild bottom end, found engine to buy for 250, looks like engine swap out for me this weekend………

  25. HowNowKaw says:

    Holá Señor Toast, et al.
    I just picked up a rolling basket today and am conflicted on direction. The serial number says it is #262 (BE000262 & engine number is BE000223) off the line. It is abused and somebody has swapped in a rear mag wheel that has a disk brake and otherwise it has just been neglected. It has FL title and three(yes, dear god, 3!) bills of sale on top of that so titling is possible but probably a PITA.)
    I like the bike but I already have four other variations of KZs so I don’t have to have it. So finally here’s my question:
    Should I put a bullet in its head and part this puppy and be done or does anybody have a nifty legal and yet cheap titled frame to sell?

  26. HowNowKaw says:


    Do I need to put a coin in the slot? Is that how this works? I will give it a week or so then if I don’t have a titled frame and nobody want/needs parts I’ll separate the steel from the aluminum from the copper and so on.


  27. Biquetoast says:

    @HowNowKaw –
    Hi buddy… Naw, you just have to shame me into getting off my rump to respond… ;)
    As for the bike, title, frame, etc… I’m afraid I don’t have a frame for ya, so we’ll see if you get any other responses. As for parting it out… It’s not a romantic notion, that’s for sure, but the parts *would* help to further bikes that need the love… Especially since it sounds like you have your hands full. Nice VIN and engine number by the way, those are about as low as it gets.

  28. HowNowKaw says:

    Haha, sorry I was only trying to be a little cheeky. :-) I am not a big fan of parting it out either and still might consider getting the paperwork straight on this because those are low VINs. I am not 100% that it can even be done in FL since they are so strict on dotted Ts and crossed Is and such. I would much rather see use come out of it. Alas, if it is not to be… well… anyway.
    Thank you greatly for creating a repository for the info on these bikes and for your response as well. We shall see what is in the cards for this one.

  29. Carlos says:

    hey man, I have a question. I can’t seem to get my pipes on right. The exhaust collars don’t exactly fit on the correct way but they are the OEM ones that I pulled off when I removed the pipes. How did you fit your pipes on when you reinstalled them?

  30. Hallsofstone says:

    Bought an ’82 and am having serious issues with fuel leaking out of the carbs. I’ve replaced the petcock and had the carbs taken completely apart, cleaned, and reassembled. Everything looked very good and normal. Even with the petcock in the “off” position it will leak. I assume it’s just the residual fuel in the lines from prior to the petcock closure. Thought it was just a stuck float or something but it wasn’t and I’m plumb out of ideas. Anyone else had this problem?

    Saw a video of a guy starting up his KZ and it catching fire. Would very much like to avoid re-enacting that scenario.

  31. Biquetoast says:

    @Carlos –
    Actually I don’t recall ever having had a problem with my exhaust collars like that. Could it be that there’s something stuck inside that’s stopping a good fit? Maybe the exhaust “crush washers” are deformed or missing?
    Sorry I don’t have anything that comes to mind…

  32. Biquetoast says:

    @Hallsofstone -
    Hmm… I had thought that the ’82 had a vacuum petcock, but clearly your saying it has an “off position” which makes me think you have an older-style gravity petcock.
    Bottom line is this… The petcock should stop the fuel flow. The float jets are great for regulating flow while running, but don’t expect them to hold back the river flow.
    Honestly, mine leaks a bit every year when I first put it in to service (and stops in a few days), as the rubber in the petcock re-expands from dry storage, but really it shouldn’t leak at all.
    So focus on your petcock, and make sure it really stops the flow. Or replace it.

  33. Hallsofstone says:


    Really appreciate your thoughts on the subject. My bike is, seemingly, a conglomeration of parts from bikes older and newer. The petcock was just gone through last week. It is the three-place gravity style with “reserve”, off, and “Primary”…but you’re right, the fuel in the lines won’t get stopped effectively by the float jets and hence my leak.

    I think you’re on the same track I was and it’s great to have my suspicions confirmed. Can’t tell you how nice it is to have folks like you out there willing to help people out.


  34. Hallsofstone says:

    Well, unfortunately I was wrong. It is still the vacuum style petcock and it is still leaking. It still leaks when it’s not on the prime setting (which seems to be the forward position). Going to pull the tank and rebuild the petcock again with a fresh kit.

    I certainly hope I can do it right this time. Thanks so much for posting all those manuals! They are hugely helpful!

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