Stores

My favorite online motorcycle stores:
- OEM, Parts, Misc. - Jeff and Z1Enterprises.com
- OEM Extremely Rare Stuff - BikeBandit.com
- Tires, OEM, Misc. - RonAyers.com
- Parts, Misc. - DennisKirk.com
- Motorcycle Clothing, Misc. - NewEnough.com
- Electronic Parts, Relays, Etc. - PartsExpress.com

My favorite OFFline motorcycle stores/shops:
- All bike maintenance I don't want to (or can't) do - Howell Cycle (517) 546-3310 (Careful, they won't work on old bikes, but *do* work on some parts if you don't tell them what year they're from) - Good people, fair prices, small shop, Kaw-only

Riding Gear

My motorcycle riding gear:
- My boots, Icon Motorhead Stealth (200506), Icon Field Armor (200807)
- My jackets, Joe Rocket Ballistic 3.0 (2003), Joe Rocket Phoenix 3.0 (200506), First Gear Fuel (2006), 46 PowerTrip Leather (200706), and XL Teknic Legend Perforated Leather (200811)
- My pants, Joe Rocket Phoenix (2005?), Draggin Jeans "Draggin Liners" (2007), Shift Havoc Leather/Textile Pants (200807)
- My gloves, 2X Alpinestars SMX-5 (2003), 2x Joe Rocket Meteor (200507), 2x Joe Rocket Velocity (200510), Joe Rocket Rush, 2X Olympia GT4100 Weather King II (200708), 2x Teknic Chicane Short glove (200808), XL Teknic Supervent Glove (200809), 2X PowerTrip PowerMonger Glove (200809)
- My helmets, XL HJC AC-11, $180.00 at Recreational Leisure in 200307, and a XXL AC-12 Yikes III Helmet, $99 from NewEnough.com in 200803
- FogCity ProShield helmet visor inserts. I've had one in my AC-11 clear visor since 2004... it really works! But I only like to use it when I must (spring and fall mornings)...

Maint./Replacement Stuff

My oil, Shell Rotella T big jug (though I have been known to thrown in a jug of GTX once in a while). I use the 15w-40, and I ride only at 32F and above. If I ever rode in colder weather, I might switch to the 5w-40 synthetic. And for pete's sake, change your VJM's oil at 1500-2000 mile intervals! Bikes that share the tranny with the clutch and the... well, the rest of the engine, break down the viscosity quickly. Since it's only around $10 per gallon, you can afford it...

My grips, ProGrip Custom Style 860 grip. Got them from Dennis Kirk. Now on almost all of my bikes. Nice style, good feel, isolate vibrations without being too squishy.

I think I've settled on one type of headlight for my bikes: Sylvania or Wagner H6024 Halogen Headlamp. Yep, old school, not H4, not fancy, just works.

The only L.E.D. taillights I'll use and swear by:
- The Radiantz 1.85" Direct Base LED cluster from Custom Dynamics, item desc.: "RED, DIRECT 1157 BASE 3205-17"
- The 3 Watt Luxeon 1157 bulbs from superbrightleds.com (My new favorite!)

I can't remember where I got my first set of LED turnsignals for my first 750. Some place off eBay, I think. They are kinda crappy, but they are ok. Then, I bought these wide-angle L.E.D. turnsignal bulbs from superbrightleds.com for my second 750, and they are not as good as the others I have. In hindight I know why: these are rounded and spread out the light to fill a reflective lense; but the KZ turnsignal sockets have no reflective backing. I should have got the straight-forward ones. Here's what you need to know - these type of LED replacement 1157s are basically crap. You pretty much need to use a big cluster (by Radianz), the 3W Luxeons, or just stick with a standard bulb.
...For the 400, I wanted more rear-facing light, so I got a set of red dual filament bullet lights, and installed the 3W Luxeons in them, and added them to my dual cat-eye light and plate holder, all controlled by a Reese trailer light controller (pics of this can be seen on the front page).

Where I got my stator repaired, at R.M Moto Électronique. Nice people, 1+ week turnaround, reasonable price (I think it was around $125 USD in 2006).

My electronic ignition (on the 750), from Newtronic Systems Ltd. UNDER NEW OWNERSHIP??? Looks like it's all points for me now that Newtronic is no longer in business. Too bad, it's a good, cheap electronic ignition if you re-do the wiring connectors.... Though I have accumulated all the parts needed to swap in a later-model KZ stock electronic ignition for a couple of my bikes, more on that later...

My new coils (on the 750s): the Dyna Dual Output 3.0 Ohm Coils DC1-1 on the 750 with the Newtronic ignition, and the Dyna Dual Output 5.0 Ohm Coils DC8-1 on the 750 and 400s with the stock points.

The carb kits I use for my '75/'76 KZ400, from Sirius Consolidated, Inc., Part #KK-0139. To be honest, they are not a perfect fit for the carbs. PLEASE see kz400.com and Ivar's wonderful write-up of his experience with these kits!

Where I get my keys made quick and easy online, MotorcycleKeys.com and Key Men, Keys For Classics. Though these services are quick and effecient, there is nothing better than a stock key, like from a dealer's old stock or eBay.. it's worth waiting for...

Those cheap SuperBike bars from RideNow Motorsports (f.k.a AZMotorsports.com) - got 'em on the first 750 and the 400. Got the "Daytona" model for the second 750 for a slightly more stock look (and it fit in easily without shorter cables, cramped brake lines and master cyl, etc.). I have tried the "Euro" model on the rebuild 400, and I was not fond of the position; A bit too pulled back and downward for my wrists...

The inline fuel filters that I use and replace every year. You can find 'em at any bike shop, I usually just order some with whatever I'm already ordering when I'm ordering something else...

I won't bleed my brakes without Russel SpeedBleeders, which I got from Seven Saturdays. Free shipping, and a great price (like $7 or something if memory serves)! Thread size is 7mm x 1.0, total length is 34mm, Russel part# 639570.... UPDATE: SevenSaturdays is sold out of them, so I recently bought them at Jegs.com, still 2 in a package, for $11.99 + $6.99 shipping.

My tires, Dunlop D404 on most of my bikes, and the Dunlop K627(110/90-18)/F11(3.00-18) combo on the 400 rebuild -- affordable, dependable. I get 'em soopercheap at RonAyers.com, installed by (and tubes and strips by) Howell Cycle.

For my '78 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin front brake line replacement, here's my shopping list from "Earl's Brake Line Components" from www.mgcycle.com/brakelines.html:
- 8 Copper crush washers, $0.75 each = $6
- 2 #600503 30 degree adjustable banjo fitting - 2 x $16.50 = $33
- 1 #600803 30 degree non-adjustable banjo fitting - $12.25
- 1 #600703 straight non-adjustable banjo fitting - $10.50
- 3ft #6000031 clear plastic covered braided stainless steel brake line - 3 x $7.75 per foot = 23.25
....Total = $85

For my '75/'76 Kawasaki KZ400 Twin front brake line replacement, here's my shopping list from z1Enterprises.com (note that the line totals with my superbike bars could have been an inch or so shorter comfortably):
- 2 Brake Hose 10MM 35 DEG BANJO FITTING TU03-6053 ( $9.59 )
- 1 Brake Hose Stainless Steel 9" Clear Coated TU03-6109 ( $14.51 )
- 1 Brake Hose 10MM STRAIGHT BANJO FITTING TU03-6051 ( $8.57 )
- 1 Brake Hose Stainless Steel 11" Clear Coated TU03-6110 ( $15.29 )
- 1 Brake Fitting Adapter - Female 10mm x 1.25 to Male JIC-3 TUFM10125-03 ( $6.08 )
- 10 Brake Hose 3/8" CRUSH WASHERS (10-Pk) TU03-6066 ( $2.84 )
.... Total = $66.47

I might also someday try brake lines from http://www.helusa.com/...

For the 750, I got a nice front wheel bearing set (part# 25-1221) from All Balls Racing. I liked it so much I ordered the rear set (part# 25-1286). Note that the rear is more complex to install, and for pete's sake, pay attention to which side all the parts go in! Don't ask why... ;) UPDATE: It looks like you can't buy them directly online from them anymore; you have to do a search and buy from local dealer.... sucky... UPDATE AGAIN: Ok, I got some front bearings (individually) for the 400 from z1enterprises.com. Allballs apparently does not make a kit for the 400 front anymore, and I could buy both bearings and two of the 3 seals (looks like one is rare now).

I buy my ReCoil kits from Maryland Metrics. I took a generic brand replacement (instead of "ReCoil" brand) once... *once*... I gotta remember to insist on ReCoil brand only next time... Although I see that off-brands are available at local auto parts stores...

I need to look in to these starter clutch repair kits from Parts N More... are they actually available? Can you afford the purchase minimum? More at 11... ;)

I found the holy grail of fuseboxes: Part #: AF-CFB4; Desc:4 Circuit ATO/ATC Fuse Block from WiringProducts.com. I installed it on the 400 rebuild, and both of the 750s, and it is nice...

Lately I've been interested in a cheapo method of muffler replacements. I get a set of Emgo Muffler Reducers (Part# 449976) from DennisKirk.com, then - for the 750s only (the 400 don't need angled angled adaptors) - a pair of angled adaptors from a guy on eBay (nortonbsa@att.net) (by the way, I found another dude selling them here), then a set of cheap stock Sportster mufflers off eBay. So far, so good. Watch out for dudes that have punched out the center of the Sporty mufflers though!

In order to do the "coilmod" or coil power relay mod, you need the 12VDC BOSCH RELAY SPDT 30A (WARNING: This relay has a 87a pin, which you DO NOT use), the 12VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET, and an In-line 10 amp ATO/ATC Fuseholder. If you use these items, then this pin-out will work:
blue = 30 = Fused power line to starter solenoid
red = 87a = DO NOT USE
yellow = 87 = DIRECT connection to coil
white = 86 = Trigger input to relay (connect to yellow/red wire)
black = 85 = Ground to frame


For sprockets and chains:
For the 750s: I buy chains (530 Chain - RK 106 link 'X' Ring) and rear sprockets (JT 38t) from z1Enterprises.com. I buy front sprockets (SunStar 17t) from DennisKirk.com, since the sprocket (17t JT with 13t spline) they offer on z1Enterprises.com does not have the little hole for the lock-washer (it is more like Honda-style with the two-holes).
For the 400s: I buy chains (530 Chain - RK 100 link 'X' Ring) and rear sprockets (JT 45t) from z1Enterprises.com. The front sprocket is a bit more complicated... Historically, I have always bought my front sprockets (15t SunStar) from DennisKirk.com because the sprocket (15t JT with 6t spline) they offer on z1Enterprises.com does not have the little hole for the lock-washer (it is more like Honda-style with the two-holes). But z1Enterprises.com is offering a SunStar 16t (with the correct lock-washer hole) that I want to buy next time, because I've always been meaning to try a 16 tooth front...

Aftermarket Accessories

My L.E.D. Battery Gauge by Kuryakyn from Custom Dynamics.

My Spot Clock by Formotion. Now I know how late for work I am while riding.

Here are the license plate rings I currently use: 750 #1, 750 #2, not used yet, 400 rebuild

My LED Tag Screws, again from Custom Dynamics - I have four of them around my license plate, wired to my turn signals. Neat.

Bead seats for motorcycles? Believe it. I use a 12x13 BeadRider.com model on my 750 and LOVE IT (although if I did it again, I'd try for 14 or 15 long)! I ordered it from Sampson before I knew I could get them direct, but hey...

I just bought this trunk from JC Whitney, and it has come in very handy so far...

I bought a Thermotec "Cool It" Fiberglass Exhaust Wrap kit on eBay from Shamrock Performance, from Brookfield IL. The kit included one pack of 1" x 50' (part # 11021) black wrap, a can of high-temp paint, and stainless straps. I might recommend *two* cans of paint, since you want to paint the header before and after you wrap it (yes, paint the wrap). The 50 foot length was just enough for me to cover my stock headers on the 750, but not the cross-over (didn't want to anyway). One final note... since you must wet and stretch the wrap as you apply it, it becomes one of the messiest things you may ever do... you get little wet black flakes all over you and everything around you... ;)

I never go anywhere without a small set of tools for any tweak that might have to happen out on the road. I got the "CRUZ TOOLS ECONOKIT METRIC M1" (200606), with only a couple special things thrown in (relay, fuses, etc). Nice kit, nice pouch. Since I have multiple bikes, I got a Joe Rocket Manta tank bag (200704) to carry the tools, and easily switch between bikes for each ride.

I bought an old-stock Morgan Colortune off eBay (200708) to see if it could help me zero in on my pilot screw adjustments, espeially on carbs that I was unfamiliar with. It really does work, and I've used it quite a few times now, but I have learned a valuable lesson in hindsight; The reason I needed the colortune in the first place was that my pilots were still dirty, no matter how much I had cleaned them, and could not be properly adjusted without compensating for the crud. The Colortune helped me tune them with that compensation. But, once I started using Seafoam and getting my carbs clean, I found that I really didn't need the Colortune, since stock stock adjustments and methods now would work as designed. You live and learn.

When I ride in cold temps, around 32F degrees, my hands get pretty cold in my hour-long commute to the office. So, I got a set of Oxford Hot Hands Heated Wrap-Over Grips to make it more tolerable. They were pretty easy to install (you must remove tank to run the wire). Though the wiring becomes mighty brittle in the REAL cold, it worked well overall, and I was really glad when it was still there in the spring! You have to keep the switch close to your (left) hand, and I found myself switching it on and off alot... the sucker gets *real* hot... One tip: In order to keep the bulkiness down to a minimum, I was able to remove the foam on my aftermarket grips so the Hot Hands wrap would fit tighter on the grip. Otherwise, it might be just a bit too much...